Jimbaran lies on the western side of Bali’s narrow isthmus, a sweeping bay that curves for five kilometres from the southern side of the airport to the bushy headland that is the home of the Four Seasons Resort and the start of the Bukit Peninsula. In spite of the many five-star developments in the area, Jimbaran Beach remains unspoilt and tranquil, the pace is still unhurried, the atmosphere relaxed and the sand soft and golden. The entrance to the bay is blocked by an unbroken coral reef, so although the calm water is not suitable for surfing, it is a safe haven for swimming. During the daytime it attracts guests from the nearby resorts, together with the occasional windsurfer. In the late afternoons, Balinese families come down to the beach. Kids paddle in the shallows and build sandcastles that are more reminiscent of miniature Taj Mahals than of Norman fortresses. Ice cream pedlars cruise for custom on pushbikes, dogs gambol through the sand, young men play football with makeshift goalposts, and the delectable smell of grilled sweet corn blended with charcoal smoke emanates from food trolleys parked at the water’s edge. The magnificent crescent bay is west facing, so at sunset the beach becomes the scene of a daily ritual as hundreds of visitors take their ringside seats at the plethora of seafood warungs; these simple beachside cafes run virtually the length of the bay and serve up the catch of the day.