East of Sanur, the area collectively known as Ketewel is a string of villages, including Pabean, Saba, Lebih, Maceti and Ketewel itself, running along the coast in the south of the Gianyar Regency. Until 2004, the only route to the east was via a congested, winding highway that passed directly through the town-centres of Gianyar and Klungkung. The construction of the Sunrise Road, however, meant that the windswept black sand beaches and traditional fishing villages within the regency suddenly became accessible to the rest of the island. The bypass – financed by the World Bank to alleviate traffic problems – opened up virgin beachfront land, which in turn has become a significant new area for the development of holiday rental villas. Bounded by the River Wos, terraced rice fields, tobacco plantations, papaya and banana groves, the area is blessed with spellbinding views extending across the ocean towards the beaches of Sanur and Nusa Dua, the islands of Lembongan, Ceningan and Penida, and the mountains of East Bali. Ketewel village itself is the origin of the celebrated Legong Bededari Dance, and the neighbouring village of Saba produced the finest Legong dancers on the island. The nearby beach of Pabean was once a small port through which oriental traders brought their products; at low tide you can still see the structure of the old harbour, and a Chinese cemetery is located close by. Balinese Hindu purification ceremonies are held beside the ocean at the sacred Pura Segara sea temple, and the offshore reef is renowned for its surf breaks. There are no Western-style restaurants in this area, but there are plenty of local warungs (eateries), while international restaurants galore can be found just 13km away in Sanur.